THE ALBERT DOCK

                                     “A hideous pile of bricks”
                                                                         Sir James Picton,1845

We’ll start our visit to the Dock at the Beatles Story which is on the map.
 Buses numbers 1,4,and 4A stop nearby.
I hope you will read these words before you enter the museum because I’d like to give you a view of what the Beatles meant to a local.
The music scene was enriched by many influences not least American. Liverpool sailors would bring back rock and roll records from the USA and American servicemen based at nearby Burtonwood also brought in a variety of music.
Liverpool has always produced entertainers: comedians, poets, writers, actors and musicians, many of whom became famous nationally and internationally. The locals knew and loved all the talented entertainment available. We had the Beatles, and some other great groups to ourselves for many years. Then suddenly the world awoke to the Beatles and wanted to enjoy all this richness, not only the Beatles, but all our groups, our poets. our comedians, our actors. So what did it all mean to a local? Firstly it was tremendously exciting that four ordinary Liverpool lads were world famous and opportunities had opened for so many others. Not everyone was pleased with the success of the Beatles. I remember in 1968 or 1969 there was a show at the Cavern which featured a mix
of poetry and music. The Scaffold, were on, one of whose members was Paul’s brother, Mike. A poet read out his composition “I bloody hate you Beatles”.

Its theme, was that the Beatles’ success had led to an exodus of talent from Liverpool. It was brave but unwise to read such a poem to a Liverpool crowd. Mike saved his life by stepping up to the microphone;
“I don’t know about that” he said “I do know Paul paid his dues. When he got back from Hamburg his ankles were like this.” He held out his forefinger and thumb to show a gap of an inch or so. He got the applause, and the poet sidled off.
Enjoy your visit to the Beatles Museum.
When you leave the Museum turn left and go through the Britannia building into the Albert Dock. Turn left towards the rows of columns, known as the Colonnades.

Near to the corner of the Dock is the Pan-American Club, which is a stylish lounge bar serving drinks, coffee, snacks and meals all day. In the evening it can be very busy and is popular with local celebrities. T.V. programmes and fashion shows are occasionally held there.
At the corner is a water-taxi/docks tour service. You may notice the
advertising board mentions “St. Johns’ Tower”. A sloppy journalist working for one of the national newspapers wrote”....and you can take a boat trip to St. John’s Tower”. This showed the level of knowledge by the journalist, as the Tower is inland, and is several hundred feet high. As you continue along the Colonnades you may notice that the regular spacing of the columns are occasionally broken up by gentle arches. These mark where cranes and hoists would swing out across the water to lift goods straight from ships into the warehouses.
At the end of the Colonnades is the Tate Gallery with its shop and café-bar. The Tate Gallery it’s free, except for special exhibitions. It is home to Contemporary Art from Peter Blake to Damien Hurst. It shows two main types ofexhibition: art chosen from the National Tate collection and special exhibitions of contemporary art. The Tate is always worth a visit, because of the art, and to
people-watch.
The ship normally berthed outside the Tate is the “Glaciere” -Built in 1899 this 100’ Baltic Trader sank in the Collingwood Dock in 1995 and spent 6 years beneath the Mersey. She was rescued by Dave and Colette Murray in 2001, and
was restored by them and volunteers. Money was raised by sale of the Murrays’ book “It’s Funny But It’s True”-which tells tales of their travels. It is now a diving training ship.
The Piermaster’s House a little past the Tate is furnished as it was in the 19th Century. The Piermaster’s job was perhaps one of the first 24/7/ jobs as he had to be available at all times. Unfortunately there is no wheelchair access.
Near to the Piermaster’s House is Mermaid House which contains a Maritime Library and is the Headquarters of the “Friends of the Museum of Liverpool Life” organisation.
On the left, at the side of the House is the sculpture “Raleigh “ by Tony
Cragg, a local sculptor.

Cross the bridge towards the Museum of Liverpool Life,
but turn towards the River,

 The statue of “The Emigrants” was donated in
2001 by the Mormon Church. It commemorates the 85,000 Mormons who
passed through Liverpool in the mid 19th century on their way to the New World,
In 2001 two sailing ships retraced the route followed 150 years earlier by the Mormons -from Northern Europe to Liverpool and then on to North America. In all over 9 million emigrants from all over Europe left from here to brave the crossing. .Amongst the emigrants were the grandparents and father of Butch Cassidy. There was another young man who later became notorious- Al Capone. President J. F. Kennedys’ great-grandfather also sailed from here. A contemporary wrote

“The open deck space reserved for steerage passengers is subject to the most violent motion, to dirt from the stacks, and odours from the hold. Toilets and washrooms are completely inadequate: salt water only is available. The unattended vomit of the sea-sick, the odours of unclean bodies, the reek of food and the awful stench of the toilet rooms make the atmosphere such that it is a marvel human flesh can endure it.”
                                          U.S. Immigration Commission 1911.

To travel in these conditions, with packed berths just 6’x 2’ in shared rooms running a third the length of the ship each passengers paid $30.00
The plaque on the wall nearby refers to the Great Famine, and the Irish survivors who escaped to the New World from here, although many also stayed in Liverpool There are many connections with the Famine

 The Museum of Liverpool Life

This area is currently(2008) being redeveloped to produce a larger Museum, so if you are walking the route go to the next section. the Maritime Museum.
The Museum has some dockside exhibits. Although the Albert Dock itself was built about 40 years after the Slave Trade was abolished in the British Empire, the two dry docks in front of the Museum date back to the 1750’s and were used to re-fit slave ships.
There is also the entrance to the Quayside where you can visit the Liverpool Pilot ship, the Edmund Gardner.AD8 It is open daily 11am-4pm Summer time only. Unfortunately there is no access for wheelchair users.
.On your left you can see the remains of a railway shed, which was bombed on the 2nd and 3rd May 1941. You can see where the end has been destroyed by the sign which reads “Great Western Rail  ”. Before the bomb damage it read “Great Western Railway”. You can also see the ”De Wadden”, built 1917, a ship that secretly ran goods between neutral Ireland and Liverpool during World War II. Ships and adjoining quaysides are closed during the Winter. The quaysides are accessible to wheelchair users but are bumpy due to the cobblestones. The propeller to your side is from the Cunard liner, ”The Lusitania” which sailed from New York on Saturday May 7th 1915, with nearly 2000 passengers and crew including many Americans. It was sunk by a German submarine ten miles off Kinsale Head, Ireland with the loss of some 1200 lives. It
was the worst maritime disaster of the First World War and was instrumental in the United States eventual decision to declare war on Germany in 1917.
The Museum aims to give an insight into the lives of the people of the area:
It shows their struggles, their pleasures, their faiths and festivals, their
occupations, showing the lives of ordinary people in challenging times
Return across the bridge to the Maritime Museum which pays proud tribute to all aspects of the area’s seagoing sons and daughters, whilst at the same time acknowledging the dark years of the slave trade. From the Museum of Liverpool Life the walk to the Maritime Museum is an even paved walkway.
The Merseyside Maritime Museum
In front of the Museum is the anchor from HMS Conway a training ship.
John Masefield, who became Poet Laureate, trained on this ship between 1891-95 and many of his poems refer to the River Mersey and Liverpool:

“Let us walk around, the night is dark but fine,
and from the fo’c’stle we shall shortly see
The lights of steamers passing to the sea
and all the city lamplights line-on-line.”

Another graduate of the Conway was Mathew Webb, the first person to swim the English Channel. He was the David Blaine of his day returning to Liverpool to demonstrate feats of endurance such as sitting in freezing water for days at a time. His final stunt proved fatal, when in 1883 he set out to swim across the rapids beneath Niagara Falls and was never seen again.
The spiral chute on the warehouse was used for sliding blocks of ice down from the ice-room on the upper floor.
The Maritime Museum  tells the story of the development of the Port from the early days of coastal traffic, to its growth into one of the world’s great commercial port cities ,
It covers Liverpool’s involvement in the Slave Trade, in the exodus of Europeans to the New World, and in its vital role in winning the longest and most important battle of the Second World War.the Battle of the Atlantic, Liverpool’s critical role, the terrible toll of the battle, with at least 30,000 merchant seamen, many of them locals, and some 18000 U-boat crew losing their lives at sea
There is a reconstruction of the hold of a slave ship. Even in the middle of a museum, this bleak exhibit evokes horror.. This is the only Museum in Europe to tell the story of the Transatlantic Slave Trade Other countries were heavily involved in fact Portugal carried by far the largest number of Africans into slavery Many others, the Spanish, the French, the Dutch and even the Danes were involved.
. The earliest English involvement was by Jack Hawkins in 1562, Queen
Elizabeth the First was said to be disgusted by it....until she was told of the profits made. She began the long involvement of the Royal family and other nobles in the Slave Trade. A copy of the Charter of “The Royal African Company” dated 10th January 1663 granting the monopoly of the trade is headed by some interesting names.

The then king, Charles II, grants the monopoly to his wife ,mother, brother ,the Duke of Buckingham and sundry other nobles. Buckingham built a stately home in the centre of London on his profits. It still bears his name but now we know it as Buckingham Palace. Some of England’s richest families’ of today can trace their wealth back to the Trade. For
some reason they prefer to pretend that it was organised by some obscure merchants in Liverpool whose families have disappeared. If you want to see where the money went walk around some stately homes, or the City of London.
London reduced its direct involvement when it began to become increasingly involved with the transportation of poor British people for one of the hundreds of crimes which were punishable by death. Transportation in the slave ships was seen as a merciful alternative to the death penalty, and was initially to the Americas, from 1717 until the U.S. War of Independence in 1776 stopped that route. The first shipment to Australia began in 1787, and continued until 1857.

An idea of the wealth involved can be seen from the trade figures. From 1713-1822, the British West Indies accounted for a larger share of British trade than did all of North America,or Latin America,Asia or Africa.When the American colonists won the War of Independence, the main response in London was "thank goodness we didn't lose the Indies" Another indicator of the relative importance was the number of British soldiers involved in the American War of Independence,and the Jamaican Campaign, which involved 89000 British troops, many more than were involved in America.
As part of its’ apology for her involvement, Liverpool joined the “Reconciliation Triangle”project which links Benin in West Africa, Richmond, Virginia and Liverpool in an axis of healing
.Some slaves came to Britain, but these were mainly those who had special skills, education, or culture. There was no demand for slaves for unskilled labouring, since as one contemporary pithily said;

“..the English labourer is not able, with hard work to earn more than what will barely provide him with his necessary food and coarse or ragged clothing”
                         Granville Sharpe 1769.

Something given little coverage in the Museum is the extent of modern day slavery. The U.S. Department of State’s annual report in 2004 estimate the current extent of cross border trafficking in slaves as 600,000-800,000 per year, with many more millions enslaved within their countries’ borders. They point to the “21st Century Slave Trade” as one of the worlds major problems. In the last 40 years more people have been sold into slavery than in the 400 plus years of the Trade. If you want to know about the 20 million current slaves then visit the Anti-Slavery Society website at: www.antislavery.org
.

“Slavery.... I didn’t know about all these forms that existed....generally people would not believe it is possible in modern times"

          Archbishop Desmond Tutu
                Speech in Hull 1999 .

One of the features of Liverpool’s maritime past is the mix of peoples in the city. Whilst your ancestors left for other parts of the world, some of their relatives stayed in the city to give it its rich character. Over half of Liverpool’s population have some Irish ancestry. Add all the other nations whose peoples came and stayed; Welsh, Scots, a sizeable Jewish community, Scandinavians, East Europeans, our Chinese community .Liverpool has possibly the longest established black community in Britain. Their ancestors settled in Liverpool from
a variety of sources .Some came as sailors, others were the children of African rulers sent to be educated here. A sizeable number came to England after the American War of Independence having fought on the Loyalist side, on the promise of freedom. The sentiments expressed by Patrick Henry’ in his famous speech “Give me liberty or give me death” did not apply to his own slaves. They made their own arrangements by escaping their bondage to join the British side.
If you visit the Walker Art Gallery, you will see one of the American escapees, James Brown, who was Chief Bosun on the “Victory” and features on the “Death of Nelson” painting .

One of the best known black newcomers to Liverpool was James Clarke who stowed away on a Russian ship in his native Guyana. He arrived in 1898, and settled in the Irish community in the Vauxhall area. He became famous for rescuing children from the Leeds-Liverpool canal, and for teaching children to swim. He was known as Gentlemen Jim, and is still fondly remembered. His family still have a canal link- his grandson, Martin Clarke is in charge of the extension of the Canal into the Albert Dock
The HM Customs & Excise National Museum is on the ground floor of the
Maritime Museum, portraying the perennial battle against contraband. In the early days this involved smugglers who simply wanted to avoid paying tax on the tobacco, rum etc., they were bringing into the country. More recently the battle has been against the importers of illegal drugs It is more hands-on than the other museums and you will be asked by your guide to assist in searching a ship’s cabin for contraband. Children have great fun looking for hidden contraband; adults can join in too. A few miles from here, in Huskisson Dock is the base of the people who do this for real, the National Deep Rummage Team, who lead the battle against all forms of smuggling.there's is a dangerous job,lowering themselves into the tightest most remote parts of ships to find hidden goods.They also train other countries customs officers in their techniques in Europe and South America.
A perhaps surprising exhibit are the two Beatles’ Gold Discs. What are they doing in a Customs and Excise Museum?

In 1964 the Beatles were presented with ten Gold Discs in the USA. Their record company arranged for them to be shipped to Britain but did not properly declare them. They were held by Customs and Excise until May 2002 when they were finally declared and these two were given to the Museum.
The Maritime Museum  has a cafe with tables on the Quayside, and another on the top floor which overlooks the Dock. .
Turn right as you leave the Maritime Museum to visit the Pump House Inn with its distinctive tall chimney. The Pump House was built in 1878, and had coal-fired boilers and a steam engine to pump water at high pressure. to power the Dock’s hydraulic hoists. It is now a pleasant pub with meals at reasonable
prices. As you walk in the bar area the floor creaks as though you are treading the boards on a ship. After a drink or two you may even experience the “ship” swaying! There are also tables and chairs outside where on a fine day you can watch the world go by. In the dock in front of the Pump House is a training ship, the Zebu. It is a traditional brigantine, some 110 feet in length and was restored by a group of local people whose ages ranged from teens to 70’s. It is used for adventure training.
The ship with the brightly painted blue hull in the dock on your right is “The Fitzcarroldo”, home to the “Walk the Plank Theatre Company”
Walk past the end of the Maritime Museum building on your right and re-enter the Dock.
Here you will find a number of popular bars and restaurants - including Est Est Est, “Blue Bar”, and Baby Cream”. “Cream” refers to the world famous “Cream” club whose founder is one of the owners. “Baby Cream” aims for a more relaxed experience. If you would like a musical memento of your visit, you can select from thousand of songs to have your own CD burned.
Continue around the Dock. Just before the entrance to the Britannia Building there is a Blue Plaque on a column commemorating the Dock’s builder “Jesse Hartley” . Enter the Building and walk straight out and you will find yourself back at the Beatles Story. Turn left and walk towards the city. On the corner of the building you will find Anchor Courtyard, and the offices of the “Yellow Duckmarine”. The “Yellow Duckmarine”, and its companion the “Wacker Quacker” are converted 1940’s army vehicles, half-boat, half-truck.They give you a unique tour of the city, sailing through the docks and driving along the city streets. Tours run every day. Telephone 0151 708 7799. Website;
theyellowduckmarine.co.uk
Carry on towards the entrance gates to the dock. On your left is a bus stop where you can catch a number1,4or4A bus back into the town centre if you wish.
If you walk through the gates onto the Strand, we can spot a few more points of interest. On the skyline you will see Liverpool’s two cathedrals The Yellow Submarine stood to your left for many years. It is now at Liverpool John Lennon Airport. The Submarine which was built for the Liverpool International Garden Festival in 1984 by apprentices from the Cammell Laird Shipyard on the far side of the Mersey. It is fifty one feet long, weighs twenty tons, and was designed by Graham Burgess.
To your right you will see the Baltic Fleet a former dockers’ pubs
which has kept its character. It is built in the shape of a ship, with its’ chimneys meant to be a liners’ funnels.It is now more geared up for visitors and for regulars from dockside apartments.It has its own micro brewery serving Wapping beers. It has a good atmosphere and does good value lunches e.g. sandwiches & toasties for about £2-95, and casseroles for £4-95. 

John Chadwick lived at nearby Hurst Street. He reached the Russian Batteries in the Charge of the Light Brigade, and survived to tell the tale .He lived at number 25, after returning from the Crimea.
At number 24 Cornhill was Sewills, a supplier of Chronometers to the Royal Navy since 1800. Their products are on many famous ships such as the Ark Royal.
Liverpudlians may remember the “One o’Clock Gun” which was fired every day. You may not know was that it was a service provided for Sewills, and the other chronometer makers to synchronise their clocks. The Gun at Morpeth pier head was fired by remote control from Bidston Observatory. The development of radio made the method of time setting redundant, but when the Dock Board tried to phase it out in 1932 there was such an outcry that they backed down. The Gun
was fired for the last time on 18th July 1969.
The large building slightly to your right is Merseyside Police Headquarters. In front of it you can see the model of the “Blue Peter” ship. This is a good time to tell you about another Liverpool character Michael Whitty. He was born in County Wexford in1795 and initially trained as a priest, but it became clear that was not his calling and he became a journalist .From 1829-1833 he was the editor of the
”Liverpool Journal”
In 1833 he was appointed Superintendent of the Night Watch- the precursor of Liverpool Police-with responsibility for keeping order in this teeming area. There was ongoing trouble between the shipwrights and the dock labourers-but Whitty’s men armed with logwood riot sticks or even cutlasses, brought the rivals to their senses.He retired from the role in 1848, and became editor of the Liverpool Daily Post in 1855-the first newspaper in Britain inexpensive enough for working people to buy. In the same year a County Court judge made insulting remarks about the
people of Liverpool, and Whitty published a rejoinder. The judge ordered Whitty to pay a fine which he refused to do. The judge had him locked up in Lancaster Gaol. A petition was raised against the judge, who eventually had to pay £1800 costs and have Whitty released.
Canning Place features in the song “Maggie May;

“Dressed in a gown so fine,
like a frigate of the line
cruisin’ up and down old Canning Place”

The Customs House stood on Canning Place. In November 1819 William
Cobbett returned from the U.S.A. When his luggage was inspected some most unlikely contents were revealed- the bones of the author of “The Rights Of Man”, Thomas Paine, who died in America in 1809.Cobbett had been charged with returning them to Paines’ birthplace, Thetford
The Customs House featured in Verne’s “Around the World in 80 Days with just hours to spare to win his bet Phineas Fogg is incarcerated in the
Customs House.
A little beyond Canning Place at 56 Park Lane was until 2005 an
unprepossessing shop, Greenberg’s, which nonetheless is of some historical interest. For many years they have been supplying both Merchant and Royal Navies’ with uniforms. In the days of the great liners, Myer and Nat Greenberg would board visiting ships and measure the officers for their uniforms. Their outfits have travelled to every corner of the world.
From near here a poor girl, Ann Hennis, was sold into indentured service in the late 1750s. Her first husband, Richard Trotter was killed at the Battle of Point Pleasant between settlers and Shawnee in 1774 Some people see this as the first battle of the War of Independence, as it thwarted an alliance between the Indians and American loyalists. Under her second husbands name she became the feared and fearless Indian fighter, famed as Mad Ann Bailey. She survived numerous dangerous encounters, and died at 83..
She is buried in Battle Monument State Park in West Virginia
It is a few minutes walk to the centre of town. The nearest station is James St. straight along the Strand.